Marrakech 马拉喀什见闻(中英)

2021年1月22日发(作者：仰宗发)
Marrakech
马拉喀什见闻

1
、

As
the
corpse
went
past
the
flies
left
the
restaurant
table
in
a
cloud
and
rushed
after
it,
but
they
came
back
a
few
minutes
later.









尸体被抬过去的时候，
成群的苍蝇嗡嗡地飞离了餐馆的饭桌，
尾随尸
体去，几分钟后又嗡嗡地飞了回来。

2
、

The
little
crows
of
mourners
–

all
me
and
boys,
no
women
–

threaded
their
way
across
the
marker
place
between
the
piles
of
pomegranates
and
the
taxis
and
the
camels,
wailing
a
short
chant
over
and
over
again.
What
really
appeals
to
the
flied
is
that
the
corpses here are never put into coffins; they are merely wrapped in a
piece of ray and carried on a rough wooden bier on the shoulders of
four friends. When the friends get to the burying- ground they hack
an oblong hole afoot or two deep, dump the body in it and fling over
it a little of the dried-up, lumpy earth, which is like broken brick. No
gravestone,
no
name,
no
identifying
mark
of
any
kind.
The
burying-ground is merely a huge waste of hummocky earth.
Like a
derelict building-lot. After a month or two no one can even be certain
where his own relatives are buried.
一支人数不多的送葬队伍
-
其中老老 小小全是男的，没有女人
-
挤过一
堆堆的石榴，
穿行在出租车和骆驼之间，< br>迂回着穿过市场，
嘴里还一
遍遍地哀号着一支短促的悲歌。
真正令苍蝇感兴趣的 是这里的尸体从
来都不装进棺材，
而是只用一块破布裹着，
放在一副粗糙的木制担架< br>1

上，
有死者的四位朋友抬去送葬。
达到坟场后，
朋友们 首先挖出一块
一两英尺深的长方形的坑，
将尸体扔入坑中，
再在上面丢一些像碎砖头一样的干土块。没有墓碑，没有留名，也没有任何身份标志，坟场
只不过是一片巨大的如同一块废 弃的建筑工地般土丘林立的荒原。
一
两个月之后，就谁也找不到自己亲人的坟墓之处了。

3
、

When you walk through a town like this
–
two hundred thousand
inhabitants of whom
at
least
twenty thousand
own literally
nothing
except the rags they stand op in
–
when you see how the people live,
and still more how easily they die, it is always difficult to believe that
you
are
walking
among
human
beings.
All
colonial
empires
are
in
reality founded upon this fact. The people have brown faces
–
besides,
there are so many o them! Are they really the sane flesh as your self?
Do
they
even
have
names?
Or
are
they
merely
a
kind
of
undifferentiated
brown
stuff,
about
as
individual
as
bees
or
coral
insects? They rise out of the earth, they sweat and starve for a few
years,
and
then
they
sink
back
into
the
nameless
mounds
of
the
graveyard
and
nobody
notices
that
they
are
gone.
And
even
the
graves themselves soon fade back into the soil. Sometimes, out for a
walk as you break your way through the prickly pear, you notice that
it
is
rather
bumpy
underfoot,
and
only
a
certain
regularity
in
the
bumps tells you that you are walking over skeletons.
当你徒步走过这样的 城镇
-
在
20
万当地居民中，
至少有
2
万人除了罩
2

在身上的一身破布外，其他一无所有
-
当你看到这些人如何生 存，又
如何轻易地死去时，
你永远难以相信自己是在人类中穿行。
但事实上，
这正是所有殖民帝国赖以建立的基础。
这些人有着棕色的脸孔
-
而且，
他们人 数众多！
他们果真和你一样是人类吗？他们也有名有姓吗？或
者他们只是一种棕色的、
像蜜蜂或珊瑚虫那样难以区分的生物呢？他
们生于土地，
挥汗如雨，
忍饥挨饿地过上几 年过后，
就被埋到坟场里
不知名的坟堆下。
没有人注意到他们的离去，
甚至这 些无名坟堆本身
也很快会变成一片平地。
有时，
当你外出散步穿过仙人掌丛时，
你会
注意到脚下的土地格外不平，
只有这些有规则的突起的土包才会告诉
你：你正踩 在死人骷髅的上面。

4
、

I was feeding one of the gazelles in the public gardens.

在公园里，我正在给一只瞪羚喂食。

5
、

Gazelles are almost the only animals that look good to eat when
they are still alive, in fact, one can hardly look at their hindquarters
without thinking of a mint sauce. They gazelle I was feeding seemed
to
know
that
this
thought
was
in
my
mind,
for
though
it
took
the
piece
of
bread
I
was
holding
out
it
obviously
did
not
like
me.
It
nibbled rapidly at the bread, then lowered its head and tried to butt
me, then took another nibble and then butted again. Probably its idea
was that if it could drive me away the bread would somehow remain
hanging in mid-air.
瞪羚几乎是唯一一种活时就让人觉得很美味的动物。
实际上，
光是看
3

到它的两条后腿就会令人联想到薄荷酱。
我正在喂食的这只瞪羚几乎
已经看 出我的这点心思，
尽管它叼走了我手上的面包，
但它显然对我
这个人并没有好感。它迅速地轻咬了一口面包，
然后低下头，
试图用
脑袋顶我，然后又啃了口面包，又 顶了一次。它大概以为，如果把我
撵跑，面包仍会在半空中。

6
、

An Arab navy working on the path nearby lowered his heavy hoe
and sidled slowly towards us. He looked from the gazelle to the bread
and from the bread to the gazelle, with a sort of quiet amazement, as
though he had never seen anything quite like this before. Finally he
said shyly in French:
“
I could eat some of that bread.
”

在附近小路上干 活的一个阿拉伯民工放下笨重的锄头，
慢慢地侧着身
子走向我们。他那诧异的目光从瞪羚移向面 包，又从面包移向瞪羚，
好像他是第一次见到这样的情形。最后他用法语怯怯的问道：
“那面< br>包我能吃点吗？”

7
、

I tore off a piece and he stowed it gratefully in

some secret place
under his rages. This man is an employee of the municipality.
我撕下一片面包，
他感激涕 零地把面包收在破衣服下的隐蔽地方。
这
个人是市政当局的一名雇工。

8
、

When you go through the Jewish quarters you gather some idea
of
what
the
medieval
ghettoes
were
probably
like.
Under
their
Moorish
rulers
the
Jew
were
only
allowed
to
own
land
in
certain
restricted
areas,
and
after
centuries
of
this
kind
of
treatment
they
4

have ceased to bother about overcrowding. Many of the streets are a
good
deal
less
than
six
feet
wide,
the
houses
are
completely
windowless,
and
sore-eyed
children
cluster
everywhere
in
unbelievable
numbers,
like
clouds
of
flied.
Down
the
centre
of
the
street there is generally running a little river of urine.
当你经过犹太人居住区时，
你可能就会了解中世纪的犹太人 区大概是
个什么样子。
在摩尔人的统治下，
犹太人只允许在几个规定的区域内
拥有土地，
而经历过几个世纪这样的待遇后，
犹太人已不再为过度拥
挤而头痛了。这儿 的许多街道还不及六英尺宽；而房子则没有窗户；
眼睛红肿的孩子成群结队，
像一群群的苍蝇，
四处可见，
多得令人难
以置信。沿着街中心向下走，往往尿流成河。

9
、

In the bazaar huge families of Jews, all dressed in the long black
robe
and
little
black
skull-cap,
are
working
in
dark
fly- infested
booths
that
look
like
caves.
A
carpenter
sits
cross- legged
at
a
prehistoric lathe, turning chair-legs at lightning speed. He works the
lathe with a bow in his right hand and guides the chisel with his left
foot, and thanks to a lifetime of sitting in this position his left leg is
warped
out
of
shape.
At
his
side
his
grandson,
aged
six,
is
already
starting on the simpler parts of the job.
在集市上，
一大家一大家的犹太人都 穿着黑色长袍，
头上戴着黑色便
帽，
在看起来如同洞穴一般光线暗淡、
苍蝇遍 布的货摊里干活。
一个
木工盘腿坐在一架古老的车窗旁，
速度极快地旋制着椅子腿。< br>他右手
5

拿弓开动车床，
左手引动凿子。
由于长期都保持 这样的坐姿，
他的左
腿已经弯曲变形了。
他六岁的孙子则坐在旁边，
已经开始 帮着做些简
单的活了。

10
、

I
was
just
passing
the
coppersmiths
’

booths
when
somebody
noticed that I was lighting a cigarette. Instantly, from the dark holes
all
round,
there
was
a
frenzied
rush
of
Jews,
many
of
them
old
grandfathers with flowing grey beards, all clamouring for a cigarette.
Even a blind man somewhere at the back of one of the booths heard a
rumour of cigarettes and came crawling out, groping in the air with
his hand. In about a minute I had used op the whole packet. None of
these people, I suppose, works less than twelve hours a day, and every
one of them looks on a cigarette as a more or less impossible luxury.
当我正要走过铜匠铺子时，有人注意到我正点着一支香烟。刹那间，
大批疯狂 的犹太人从四面八方的黑洞窟里钻了出来，
其中还有很多胡
子斑白的老人，
他们都争着 要讨支香烟。
甚至一位盲人也从铺子后面
爬了出来，
手在空中胡乱摸索着。
不 到一分钟的时间，
我的整包香烟
就全分完了。我想这些人中没有谁每天工作少于
12< br>个小时，但每个
人都视一根香烟为一种无法承担的奢侈品。

11
、

As the Jews live in self- contained communities they follow the
same trades as the Arabs, except for agriculture. Fruit sellers, potters,
silversmiths,
blacksmiths,
butchers,
leather- workers,
tailors,
water-carriers,
beggars,
porters
–

whichever
way
you
look
you
see
6

nothing but Jews. As a matter of fact there are thirteen thousand of
them, all living in the space of a few acres. A good job Hitler wasn
’
t
here. Perhaps he was on his way, however. You hear the usual dark
rumours
about
Jews,
not
only
from
the
Arabs
but
from
the
poorer
Europeans.
由于犹太人生活在一个自给 自足的社会里，
他们与阿拉伯人从事一样
的行业，农业除外。他们当中有水果贩子、陶制工、银 匠、铁匠、屠
夫、皮匠、裁缝、运水工、乞丐、脚夫等
-
放眼望去，到处都是犹太人。
事实上，
在这块仅几亩大的土地上，
竟然生活着
13000
个犹太人。
幸运的是，
希特勒并未光顾过这里。
或许他曾经想过来这里。
你常 听
到的有关犹太人的不利传言，
不仅来自阿拉伯人，
还来自较穷的欧洲
人。< br>
12
、

“
Yes mon vieux, they tool my job away from me and gave it to a
Jew.
Tee
Jews!
They
’
re
the
real
rulers
of
this
country,
you
know.
They
’
ve
got
all
the
money.
They
control
the
banks,
finance
–

everything.
”


“老兄啊，
他们夺走我的工 作给了犹太人。
这些犹太人啊！
你知道吧，
他们才是这个国家真正的统治者。
他们卷走了全部的钱，
他们还控制
了银行、财政
-
一切的一切。
”< br>
13
、

“
But
”
, I said,
“
isn
’
t it a fact that the average Jew is a labourer
working for about a penny an hour?
”

“但是”我说道，
“事实上一般的犹太人不是都在为每小时一便士的
7

微博工钱而劳作吗？”

14
、

“
Ah,
that
’
s
only
for
show!
They
’
re
all
money
lenders
really.
They
’
re cunning, the Jews.
”

“啊，
那只不过是装装样子。
他们其实都是放债的债 主，
犹太人狡诈
得很呢。
”

15
、

In just the same way, a couple of hundred years ago, poor old
women
used
to
be
burned
for
witchcraft
when
they
could
not
even
work enough magic to get themselves a square meal.
想想与这相同的一幕吧：
好几百年前，
常有些可怜的老妇人因为拥有
巫术而被烧死，但 她们却甚至没办法利用自己的巫术让自己饱餐一
顿。

16
、

All people who work with their hands are partly invisible, and
the more important the work they do, the less visible they are. Still, a
white
skin
is
always
fairly
conspicuous.
In
northern
Europe,
when
you see a labourer ploughing a field, you probably give him a second
glance. In a hot country, anywhere south of Gibraltar or east of Suez,
the chances are that you don
’
t even see him. I have noticed this again
and
again.
In
a
tropical
landscape
one
’
s
eye
takes
in
everything
except the human beings. It talks in the dried-up soil, the prickly pear,
the
palm
tree
and
the
distant
mountain,
but
it
always
misses
the
peasant hoeing at his patch. He is the same colour as the earth, and a
great deal less interesting to look at.
8