-
Styles and Details of Fashion
服装款式分类及其细部
1 Shir
ts/Blouses/
男衬衫
/
女衬
衫
1.1 Shirt
Details/
男衬衫细部
The
shirt is inner wear or outer wear on the torso,
was developed as a men
’
s
item.
男衬衫作为男装单品的一种,可以穿在里面也可以穿在外面。
Point/
领尖
,
shoulder yoke/
肩部育克
, sleeve,
sleeve placket/
袖衩
,
cuff/
袖克夫
,
vent
。开衩
, collar
band/
底领
, collar,
collar bottom, armhole, chest pocket,
placket/
门襟
, front
panel
。前片
, guntlet
button/
袖衩扣
, cuff
button/
袖口扣
.
1.2
Blouse details
The blouse is a soft and
loose garment for the upper body which is worn by
women together with
skirts or trousers.
In today
’
s fashion, there is
a large variety of shirt / blouse styles. The
different
features
of
individual
designs,
e.
g.
the
neckline
and
collar,
length,
cut,
details
and
decoration,
together with
the material produce a particular style.
女衬衫是一种柔软宽松的女上衣,可以配以短裙也可以配裤子。
如今,男
/
女衬衫的款式有
多种多样,特别的设计可以通过领口、领子、长度、裁剪、细部、装饰以及面料的变化创造
出独特的款式。
Gather
抽褶
, cuff,
front panel, slit/
开衩
,
collar, armhole, placket, sleeve, cuff button.
1.3 Blouse design
variation/
女衬衫款式设计
Tie neck/
打结式
The bands on the neckline are loosely
knotted or tied into a bow.
领口带子松松打结或系成蝴蝶结。
Shirt style/
男衬衫式
The straight cut, cuffed sleeves and
button placket are from mans shirt.
直线裁剪,带袖口的袖子和门襟都借用了男衬衫的风格。
Peplum/
腰裙式
Top with a short skirt (peplum) which
is either sewn on or shaped.
上衣设计有小短裙(腰裙)
,
可以另缝一片也可以直接裁成。
Blouson/
短茄克式
A blouse with a full bodice and close
fitting waistband.
上衣宽松,下摆带有合体腰带的衬衫。
Safari style/
猎装式
Breast pockets, epaulettes and rolled
sleeves emphasize the casual style.
胸袋、肩襻以及卷起的袖子强调出休闲的风格。
Polo shirt/
马球式衫式
A casual blouse made of knitted fabric
with an open collar and a short button placket.
一种休闲风格衬衫,采用针织面料,开领,短开襟。
Wrap- over/
裹襟式
The front section is closely overlapped
and tied at the side.
前面两片相互重叠,并在一侧打结
Ruffle style
A blouse with
ruffle on the front edges of neckline and collar.
前襟领口及领子设计有菏叶边的女衫。
2 Jacket/
外套
The
jacket
is
a
basic
item
of
outwear.
Sometimes,
it
refers
particularly
to
the
tailored
types
in
men
’
s clothing.
In a broad sense it includes the jumper ( blouson)
as well, and is worn by men,
woman and
children. The distinguishing features between
individual designs doe example, length,
width,
silhouette
’
s cut and details
are determined by the style.
外套是一种基本的外穿服装。
有时特指精制男西服。
广义来说,也
包括休闲茄克,
可以是
男装、女装,
也可以是童装。
不同的款式在长度、
宽度、外形轮廓、裁剪方式以及细部方
案各有独特之处。
2.1 Jacket details
Gorge
line/
串口线
,
lapel/
驳头
,
armhole,
front
dart,
flap
pocket/
盖式口袋
,
front
cut/
前摆圆角
,
collar, shoulder
line/
肩线
, sleeve
top/
袖山头
, flower
hole/
插花孔
, chest wilt
pocket/
前胸开缝口
袋
,
sleeve, sleeve button.
2.2 Denim and
jumper
Double
stitch/
双明线
, shoulder yoke,
bolt lock/
锁缝
, front pleat,
shirt collar, set-in
sleeve/
装袖
,
western flap
pocket/
牛仔带盖口袋
.
Johnney
collar,
set-in
sleeve,
melton/
麦尔登呢
,
leather
sleeve/
皮革袖
,
rib
knit/
罗纹袖口
,
monogram/
角织字母
,
double piped pocket
双滚边口袋
,
knit jersey/
针织下摆
, dot
button./
打点纽
扣
2.3 Jacket design variation
Tailored
jacket/
精制西服
A
dainty women
’
s jacket,
fitted at the waist with a classic lapel.
一种精制女外衣,腰部合体,设计有经典的翻驳领。
Cardigan
style/
无领开襟式
A hip
length, shaped jacket with a long neck and no
collar.
长及臀围,低领口,无领的外衣。
Short jacket/
短外衣
A short ,loose jacket which is also
described as a jacket-top.
短而宽松的外衣,也被描述为外衣上身。
Chanel suit/
夏奈尔式
A collarless style jacket. It employs
“
Chanel
tweed
”
and features hem-
stitching.
一种无领的上衣,采用夏奈尔粗花呢,逼供内以镶边为特征。
Blazer/
布雷泽式(休闲西装)
A sporty elegant jacket with a shaped
style, single or double breasted with lapels.
精制优雅的休闲西装,
单排扣或双排扣,带有翻驳领。
Denim jacket/
牛仔茄克
A waist-length jumper made from denim.
Originally this was a western
worker
’
s garment.
兰色斜纹布齐腰茄克,起源于西部工人工作服。
3 Coats
Long outer wear worn
on the very outside of all clothes. Above the knee
it is called
”
short
coat
”
,
at the
knee a
“
half
coat
”
, and below the knee a
“
long
coat
”
. The dress is a basic
item of female
outer clothing. In the
narrow sense, the item is used for a single piece
of clothing comprising an
upper body
part and a skirt section.
大衣是指穿在最外面的服装。
膝盖以上称短大衣,
及膝长度称半长大衣,
膝盖以下称长大衣。
裙装是女性的基本外衣,狭义是指上下连为一体的女装。
3.1Coat details
Epaulette
肩饰
,
storm flap
披胸布
, raglan
sleeve
插肩袖
, D-ring
D
形环
, caped
back
披肩
, chin
warmer
下巴罩布
, flap
and button pocket
带盖、带纽扣口袋
,
cuff strap
袖口饰带
.
3.2 Coat design
variation/
大衣款式设计
Sport coat/
运动式
A knee length coat in a box-like cut
with defined line.
直筒型及膝长大衣,带有明线设计。
Great coat/
厚重长大衣
A heavy, thick
men
’
s coat with a wide lapel
and double breasted.
厚重面料的男装大衣,宽翻驳领,通常为双排扣。
Trench coat/
战壕式
An
all-weather
coat.
It
is
worn
belted.
Epaulettes,
shoulder
pads
and
wrist
straps
are
typical
details.
一种适合各种气候穿着的宽松大衣,系腰带,肩襻、垫肩和袖襻是此款风衣的典型细部。
Redingote/
细腰式
A fitted women
’
s
coat with lapel and long vertical seams which
widen to provide a flared.
带有翻驳领的合体女大衣,纵向破缝,宽下摆。
Wrap/
围裹式
It has a comfortable width and is held
together simply by a belt.
舒适宽松,用腰带简单系住。
Raglan/
插肩式
A loose men
’
s
coat with raglan sleeves, often with concealed
buttons.
男式宽松大衣,插肩袖,通常为暗扣门襟。
Chesterfield/
柴斯特外套(合体西服式)
An elegant, fitted coat with a
suit-like lapel pointing up wards and flap
pockets.
优雅合体型大衣,有西服式上翘的翻驳领和盖袋。
3.3 Dress design
variation/
裙装设计变化
Shirt dress/
衬衫式
This has a loose cut, cuffed sleeves
and shirt collar. It is buttoned all the way
through and is belted.
宽松式裁剪,有袖口和男式衬衫领。前
面通开扣,系腰带。
Coat
dress/
大衣式
This is
usually made of strong material. It is always
buttoned all the way down with a belt.
通常采用坚固面料,前面通开扣,系腰带。
Strapless/
无带式
The closely fitted, low-cut, sleeveless
top is shaped and supported with boning. It
sometimes also
has thin straps.
紧身合体,无袖上衣部分采用鱼骨支撑,有时也会采用细带。
Day dress/
晨礼服
An
elegant,
high
neck,
long
sleeved
dress,
worn
during
the
day
or
also
evening
to
semiformal
occasions.
一种优雅的高领口长袖裙装,用于白天或晚上半正式场合。
Princess/
公主式
Long vertical seams form a cloth-
fitting top but a wide flared skirt.
纵向长破缝,上衣部分紧身合体,裙子部分展开下摆。
Empire /
帝国式
The high, gathered under-bust seam is
characteristic of the empire style.
帝国式
特征表现在胸下带有抽褶的高腰线裙,通常称之为帝国式。
Straight/
直线式
A flared or pleated skirt is fitted to
an elongated straight top.
将阔摆或褶裥缝合到加长的直线裁剪的上衣上。
Shift/
衬衫式
The shirt-like straight cut without a
waist is characteristic of this dress.
衬衫式直线裁剪、无腰线的连衣裙称为直筒式
/
4 Skirts/
短裙
Nowadays, the term skirt is used for an
item of clothing worn from waist down and which is
the
basic
element
of
women
’
s
clothing
matching
jacket
with
skirt
makes
a
suit,
or
costume.
Many
styles of skirts are subject to changes
in fashion. Other styles are considered classics,
or timeless.
Individual styles are
distinguished by length, width, silhouette, cut
and details.
短裙是指自腰而下的服装单品,
是
女装的一个基本元素。
短裙与外套相配便可形成套装,
也
可以组成礼服。
很多裙子的款式会随着流行而变化,
< br>也有些款式被看做经典而经久不衰。
个
种款式通过长度、
宽度、外形轮廓、裁剪结构以及细部的不同而有所区别。
4.1 Skirt
length/
短裙的长度种类
Micro
超超短
,
mini
超短
,
knee
及膝
,
below
the
knee
膝下
,
midi
及小腿
,
maxi
过小腿
,
ankle
length
及脚踝
, floor
length
及地
4.2
skirt design
variation/
短裙款式设计
Narrow/
一步裙
The hem of the skirt is narrow than the
width at the hips.
裙子的下摆宽度比臀围窄。
Draped/
悬垂裙
An elegant, sophisticated skirt with
folds.
带有柔软悬垂褶的优雅华美的裙子。
Bell/
钟形裙
The circular or semi0circular cut
produces a flared hem.
圆形或半圆摆裁剪,形成展开的下摆。
Paneled/
多片裙
This style is close at the hips with a
wide hem obtained by shaped vertical panels.
通过纵向分割线实现臀部合体,下摆展开。
Gored /
插片裙
Either bell shaped panels or inserted
additional material allow the hem to swing out.
通过裁剪钟形裁片或插入镶片面料,使下摆展开。
Tiered/
塔裙
The successive horizontal panels
increase in width towards the hem.
相继横向破缝,并逐层增加宽度。
Yoke style/
育克裙
A straight section is added from the
waist to about hip height.
在腰线至臀围附近加上的平直部分,成为育克。
Frilled
hemline/
花边裙
The
ruffled hem edging can be either straight or
flounced.
下摆花边可以是直的,也可以是荷叶边。
Pleats/
褶裥裙